North West Italy

Sheltering in the lea of the Alps, the north-western regions of Italy are the least Mediterranean, the least typically ‘Italian’. The pretty Alpine villages of Valle d’Aosta, the lakes of Lombardy, the superb cuisine of Piedmont, and the coastal stretch of Liguria offer plenty to those seeking to buy real estate in Italy. Valle d’Aosta is a mystery to many visitors, being the smallest and least populous region in Italy. But bordering Switzerland and France, and being entirely mountainous, this little region has a lot going for it. Liguria lies just over the border from the French Riviera, this slim strip of Italy between mountain and sea sharing its French neighbour’s coastline and style.

It may be on the Italian side of the border, but the cuisine of Valle d'Aosta and Piedmont is strongly influenced by neighbouring France, as is much of the food of Northwest Italy.

The smallest region of Italy, mountainous Valle d'Aosta is famed for its Fontina cheese. Most milk produced in the area is used to produce this buttery, nutty cheese that's been made here for nearly 700 years.

In Piedmont, if you're feeling rich, try the renowned white truffles (trifola d'Alba); sniffed out by trained dogs, they're supposedly an aphrodisiac! Southern Piedmont, near Asti and Alba, produces some of Italy's greatest wines, we've all heard of Barolo and Barbaresco. Polenta is another regional specialty. Monasteri Bormida and Bubbi, two cities in the Asti district each year hold the festival of Il Polentone (“the big polenta”).

Antipasto is a hallmark of Piemonte cuisine; you could be faced with as many as two dozen varieties at city restaurants. The most famous antipasto dish is "bagna cauda", vegetables dipped fondue-style into a "hot bath" of oil, anchovies, and garlic - strong stuff!

If you're around in Autumn, make sure you get to the Langhe district, where Barolo wine and truffles come from. After the grapes have been harvested the farmers go hunting for truffles with their specially trained dogs. The Barolo wine goes perfectly with specialities such as "taiarin," narrow tagliatelle enriched with aromatic truffles.

A Piemontese specialities is "agnolotti," pasta made with eggs stuffed beef, pork, or rabbit, flavoured with sausage, parmesan cheese, eggs and herbs. Piedmont is one of the most important rice-growing regions of Italy, and "Risotti" or rice dishes are another speciality, often covered with shaved truffles. In past times a "risotto" might compose the entire meal, enriched with "funghi porcini" (mushrooms), fondue, eels and frogs from the Po River, little birds on a spit, and other delicacies.

The secundi piatti served in Piedmont show French influence, for example, "brasato al Barolo" (braised beef with Barolo red wine). "Bollito misto" or boiled meats is served without any extras, except sometimes "mostarda" from Cremona, fruit preserved in syrup that gains quite a kick from a healthy jolt of powdered mustard seed. The rich assortment of meats includes pork, veal, turkey, beef and vegetables accompanied by pickled sauces and "salsa verde", a spicy green sauce made from parsley, garlic, breadcrumbs soaked in vinegar, hard-boiled eggs, olive oil and pepper.

Cheeses from the area include "Tome delle Langhe" and "Brus." The best "Tome" are soft inside with a thin pale yellow crust. Some farmers conserve them with oil and herbs. "Brus" is not advised for those with delicate stomachs, as it has a hell of a kick (it's made with grappa, a lot of pounded black pepper and hot red pepper) - have some dessert wine handy as an antidote!

Turin didn't just invent "grissinis" (breadsticks). Chocolate was produced there even before Switzerland, and chocolatiers Giroldi and Giuliano were already famous in 1700 where their shop in Via Doragrossa served hot chocolate to faithful customers. Their competitor, Peyrano, today uses nine different types of cocoa in their products which include bitter gianduiotti (made with almonds), pistacchio shells and other specialties. Baratti & Milano and Caffarel are other famous names.

South of these two regions on the coast is Liguria. Ligurians are known for their seafood dishes and their Pesto Genovese, a sauce made of a paste of fresh garlic, extra virgin olive oil, fresh Italian basil leaves, pine nuts and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

The trattorias along the Ligurian coast serve a typical fish soup called "ciuppin" which is served in two dishes, one containing a strongly flavoured broth with thick bread, in the other the fish, shrimps, and octopus that helped make the broth. Another speciality, "frutti del mare" (a seafood platter) are cooked simply with oil, parsley, garlic, pepper and white wine.

Zucchini, onions, eggplants, and green peppers are generally baked in the oven, enriched with bread crumbs, cheese, and flavours of garlic and herbs, especially marjoram. Tomato sauce isn't used much here, instead they use "pesto".